Guest guide
Everything you need to enjoy Rome from M&M House. The guide will keep growing with new tips.
Before you head out
Tickets
Trams, buses and the metro all take the BIT ticket, valid for 100 minutes from validation (on the metro it covers a single entry). You can buy it at tobacconists, newsstands, station machines or in the ATAC app; on the tram, validate it as soon as you board. If you'll be travelling a lot, consider the 24-, 48- or 72-hour tickets.
Trains within the city
Within Rome the BIT is also valid on regional trains, including those to St Peter's: validate it in the machines at the station before you board.
Tram 8
Your stop is Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco. Trams run frequently, but late in the evening or during engineering works they may be replaced by buses: if in doubt, check the ATAC or Moovit app.
Museums
Many state museums close on Mondays, and the Vatican Museums on Sundays (except the last Sunday of the month). Book the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums and the Galleria Borghese online, and always check current opening times on the official websites.
Churches
In the basilicas, starting with St Peter's, shoulders and knees must be covered: a light scarf in your bag solves everything.
Water and taxis
Rome's street fountains, the “nasoni”, give fresh drinking water, so bring a reusable bottle. Only use official white taxis, from a taxi rank or through an app.
Tram, train and bus, step by step
These are the lines you'll use most: tram 8 for Trastevere and the centre, the FL3 train for St Peter's and the Vatican, and bus H to get here from Roma Termini. Here's how they work and, for each one, an animated route with every stop.
How the animated route works
- Tap «See the route» under the line you need: the diagram opens with all the stops.
- «You are here» marks the stop you start from. The vehicle sets off from there and moves stop by stop: the stretch covered fills with colour, and the counter at the top shows the stops travelled out of the total.
- On arrival the destination stays highlighted and you'll find the «Directions on Google Maps» button, with the route from the apartment and up-to-date times.
- Use «Replay the route» to run it again whenever you like – at the stop, for instance, to double-check where to get off.
8Tram 8: Trastevere and the centre
- Before boarding: buy a BIT ticket (see «Tickets» above) and validate it on board as soon as you get on.
- At the Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco stop, take the tram towards Piazza Venezia (the other terminus is Casaletto).
- On the way: for Trastevere get off at Trastevere/Mastai or Belli (about 10 minutes); for Campo de' Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto at Arenula/Cairoli; for the Vittoriano, the Forums and Via del Corso stay on to the end of the line, Piazza Venezia (about 25 minutes).
- Coming back: same line towards Casaletto, and get off at Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco.
- Late in the evening or during engineering works the tram may be replaced by buses: check the ATAC or Moovit app before you head out.
See the routeClose the route
8Tram 8
- Casaletto
- Gianicolense/Ponte BiancoYou are here
- Stazione Trastevere
- Trastevere/Pascarella
- Ippolito Nievo
- Trastevere/Bernardino da Feltre
- Trastevere/Min. Pubblica Istruzione
- Trastevere/Mastai
- Belli
- Arenula/Min. Giustizia
- Arenula/Cairoli
- Piazza VeneziaArrival
10 stops and you're there, right in the heart of Rome's historic centre.
Directions on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)FL3FL3 train: St Peter's and the Vatican
- From the apartment to Roma Trastevere station it's a 10–15-minute walk.
- Within Rome the BIT ticket is valid on this train too: validate it in the machines at the station before boarding.
- On the departures board look for FL3 trains (towards Viterbo, Cesano or Bracciano) and check the platform.
- On the way: Quattro Venti is the first stop; get off at the second, Roma S. Pietro.
- Outside the station, St Peter's Square is just a short walk away.
- Coming back: take a train from Roma S. Pietro towards Roma Ostiense or Tiburtina and get off at Roma Trastevere.
See the routeClose the route
FL3FL3 train
- M&M House
- Roma TrastevereYou are here
- Quattro Venti
- Roma S. PietroArrival
2 train stops and you get off at San Pietro, a short walk from the Vatican.
Directions on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)HBus H: from Roma Termini to the apartment
- As you leave Roma Termini, take bus H from the terminus in front of the station, towards Dei Capasso.
- Buy a BIT ticket in the station (tobacconists, newsstands or ticket machines) and validate it on board as soon as you get on.
- On the way the bus runs along Via Nazionale, passes Piazza Venezia and crosses Trastevere: get off at Gianicolense/S. Camillo, after 19 stops (about 35–40 minutes, depending on traffic).
- From the stop it's about a 3-minute walk to the apartment.
- The bus runs every day, roughly from 5:30 (6:00 on public holidays) until midnight: check the ATAC or Moovit app for exact times. With large suitcases or a late arrival, a taxi from the Termini rank is the easiest option.
See the routeClose the route
HBus H
- TerminiYou are here
- Repubblica
- Nazionale/Torino
- Nazionale/Quattro Fontane
- Nazionale/Palazzo Esposizioni
- Nazionale/Quirinale
- Quattro Novembre/S. Apostoli
- Plebiscito
- Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli
- Foro Olitorio
- Lungotevere de' Cenci
- Sonnino/S. Gallicano
- Mastai
- Trastevere/Min. Pubblica Istruzione
- Bernardino da Feltre
- Ippolito Nievo
- Trastevere/Pascarella
- Gianicolense/Stazione Trastevere
- Gianicolense/Dunant
- Gianicolense/S. CamilloArrival
19 stops to Gianicolense/S. Camillo, then a 3-minute walk and you're home.
Directions on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)FL1From Fiumicino Airport to the apartment
- On arrival, follow the signs for trains: from the terminal you walk to Fiumicino Aeroporto station, which is connected to the airport.
- Buy your ticket from the station machines or in the Trenitalia app: the BIT ticket isn't enough for the airport station, you need the dedicated ticket.
- Take the regional FL1 train, not the Leonardo Express, which runs non-stop to Roma Termini and doesn't stop at Trastevere: check on the departures board that your train stops at Roma Trastevere.
- On the way: 7 stops, about 27 minutes. Get off at Roma Trastevere.
- From there it's about a 10–15-minute walk to the apartment. With luggage you can take tram 8 from the Stazione Trastevere stop, in front of the station, towards Casaletto, and get off at the next stop, Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco.
- If you prefer, an official taxi from the airport rank takes you straight to the apartment.
HFrom Ciampino airport to the apartment
- There is no railway station at Ciampino airport, so the first step is to get to Roma Termini.
- Direct shuttle: the coaches to Roma Termini leave from outside the arrivals hall. You can buy tickets at the companies' desks in the airport or online.
- Or Ciampino Airlink: a bus takes you to Ciampino station, where you catch the regional train to Roma Termini. One ticket covers both the bus and the train.
- At Roma Termini, take bus H towards Dei Capasso and get off at Gianicolense/S. Camillo: about 35–40 minutes, depending on traffic. You need a BIT ticket (see «Tickets» above).
- From the stop, the apartment is about a 3-minute walk.
- If you prefer, an official taxi from the airport rank takes you straight to the apartment.
Your days in Rome
Day 1The heart of Rome
The first day is for the places everyone dreams of seeing: Rome's most famous squares and fountains, linked by a long walk through the historic centre.
- From the Piazza Venezia terminus, head up Via del Corso and, through the side streets, you reach the Trevi Fountain in about 15 minutes: go early, before the crowds, and throw a coin over your shoulder to make sure you come back to Rome. Another 10 minutes and you're in Piazza di Spagna, with the Barcaccia fountain and the Spanish Steps leading up to Trinità dei Monti: climb to the top for the view over the rooftops, then come back down along Via dei Condotti, the street of the big fashion names.
- About a 20-minute walk takes you to the Pantheon: since 2023 there's an entrance fee, but the dome and its oculus are worth the visit on their own. Just a few steps away is Piazza Navona, with Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers and Borromini's Sant'Agnese in Agone facing each other. Finish at Campo de' Fiori, with a tasty break at Antico Forno Roscioli on Via dei Chiavari: pizza bianca or rossa by the slice, eaten standing up like the Romans do.
- Dinner at Osteria da Fortunata, where the pasta is rolled out by hand in front of the diners. It's a much-loved place, so arrive early or expect a short wait.
Getting around
- Getting there: tram 8 from Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco to the Piazza Venezia terminus, 10 stops, about 25 minutes.
- Getting back: tram 8 towards Casaletto from the Arenula/Cairoli stop, a 5-minute walk from Campo de' Fiori.
A tip
You're not allowed to sit or eat on the Spanish Steps: it's forbidden and you risk a fine.
Day 2The Vatican
The most demanding day, but also one of the most moving. It's best to set off early with your tickets already booked.
- Two train stops take you to Roma S. Pietro station. From there it's about a 25-minute walk along the walls to the entrance of the Vatican Museums. Allow at least three hours inside: the Gallery of Maps, the Raphael Rooms and, at the end, the Sistine Chapel.
- After a lunch break in the Prati district, go into St Peter's Basilica: entry is free, but there's a security check. If you still have the energy, climb the dome, first by lift and then on foot up more than 300 steps: the view over Bernini's square makes it all worthwhile. On the way down, Via della Conciliazione leads you to Castel Sant'Angelo and the Tiber.
- After a day like that, the best thing is to head home and have dinner right downstairs at C'Era Una Volta, a 2-minute walk away: lots of pizzas, pasta, mains and a vegan menu too, with no more travelling.
Getting around
- Getting there: a 10–15-minute walk to Roma Trastevere station, then an FL3 line train to Roma S. Pietro (2 stops). Check on the departures board that your train stops at Roma S. Pietro.
- Getting back: from Roma S. Pietro station, any train that stops at Roma Trastevere, then walk home.
- A BIT ticket is all you need: validate it at the station before you board.
A tip
The Vatican Museums are closed on Sundays, except the last Sunday of the month, when they're free but extremely crowded. On Wednesday mornings, during the Pope's general audience, the square may be closed to visitors.
Day 3Ancient Rome
Two thousand years of history in just a few kilometres: the Colosseum, the political heart of ancient Rome and the hill where, according to legend, it all began.
- Start in Piazza Venezia: take the panoramic lift up to the Vittoriano terrace, where you see Rome in 360 degrees, the Forums included. Then walk along Via dei Fori Imperiali, about a kilometre with the Forums of Trajan and Augustus on either side, to the Colosseum. Go in at the time shown on your ticket, which you should book online on the official website of the Parco archeologico del Colosseo: it also covers the Roman Forum and the Palatine.
- With the same ticket, visit the Roman Forum and climb the Palatine Hill: from the Farnese Gardens you look down over the whole Forum. Then move on to the Monti district, a few minutes from the Colosseum, with its craft workshops, little squares such as Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, and bars for an aperitivo.
- Dinner at Come 'na Vorta Pasta e Vino, in the centre: simple, honest Roman cooking, fresh pasta and house wine. Tram 8 runs through Trastevere on the way home: if you still have the energy, get off at the Belli stop for a stroll through the lamplit lanes.
Getting around
- Getting there: tram 8 to Piazza Venezia (about 25 minutes), then on foot.
- Getting back: tram 8 from the Piazza Venezia terminus, towards Casaletto, to Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco.
A tip
Comfortable shoes and water: between the Forum and the Palatine there's a lot of walking, on uneven ground with little shade. In summer, go in early in the morning.
Day 4Trastevere and the Janiculum
A slow day, almost entirely on foot and close to home: the greenery of Villa Pamphili, the lanes of Trastevere and the most beautiful sunset in Rome.
- Villa Pamphili is a 15-minute walk from the apartment: it's Rome's largest park, with umbrella pines, lawns, a small lake and the Casino del Bel Respiro. It's perfect for a stroll or a run before it gets hot.
- Tram 8 gets you to Trastevere in 10 minutes. For lunch, go to Da Enzo al 29 on Via dei Vascellari: it's small and much loved, so get there early. Then lose yourselves in the lanes: Santa Maria in Trastevere with its golden mosaics, Santa Cecilia, Piazza Trilussa.
- An hour before sunset, walk up to the Janiculum along Via Garibaldi, past San Pietro in Montorio and the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, known as the “Fontanone”. From the terrace in Piazzale Garibaldi, the whole of Rome lies at your feet. Then a seafood dinner at Bruno ai Quattro Venti, a 10-minute walk from the apartment: the evening ends practically on your doorstep.
Getting around
- Morning: on foot from the apartment.
- To Trastevere: tram 8 from Gianicolense/Ponte Bianco to the Belli stop, about 10 minutes.
- Evening: the climb to the Janiculum is on foot and uphill. From the Janiculum to Bruno ai Quattro Venti, allow about half an hour on foot, or take a taxi.
A tip
If you're on the Janiculum at midday, you'll hear the cannon shot that has marked noon in Rome since 1847.
Day 5Villa Borghese and Piazza del Popolo
A more relaxed day of art and greenery: one of Rome's most theatrical squares, one of the finest museums in the world and a great park to slow down in.
- From Piazza Venezia, walk the whole length of Via del Corso, Rome's shopping street, to Piazza del Popolo: about 20 minutes on foot. Step into Santa Maria del Popolo, home to two paintings by Caravaggio, then climb up to the Pincio and carry on into the Villa Borghese park, with its tree-lined avenues and the little lake with rowing boats.
- Visit the Galleria Borghese, with Bernini's sculptures, such as Apollo and Daphne, and paintings by Caravaggio and Raphael: entry is by reservation only, at a set time, for about two hours. At sunset, go back to the Pincio terrace, which looks out over Piazza del Popolo and the rooftops as far as St Peter's.
- Walk down to Piazza del Popolo and head to Trastevere for dinner at Tonnarello on Via della Paglia: Roman cooking with generous portions. It's very popular, so expect a short wait.
Getting around
- Getting there: tram 8 to Piazza Venezia, then on foot along Via del Corso.
- Evening: from Piazza del Popolo to Trastevere a taxi is the easiest option, about 15 minutes, traffic permitting.
- Getting back: after dinner, tram 8 from the Belli stop towards Casaletto.
A tip
The Galleria Borghese has few places per time slot: book well in advance on the official website.
Day 6The Aventine and the Circus Maximus
The quietest and most surprising side of ancient Rome: a legend to put to the test, gardens overlooking the Tiber and a view you won't expect.
- From the Belli stop, cross the Tiber by way of Tiber Island. In about 15 minutes you reach Santa Maria in Cosmedin, where the Mouth of Truth stands under the portico: legend has it that it bites the hand of anyone who lies. Carry on to the Circus Maximus, the vast arena of the chariot races.
- Climb the Aventine Hill along the Clivo dei Publicii. The Orange Garden offers one of the finest views over the rooftops of Rome, with the basilica of Santa Sabina right next to it. A little further on, in Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, look through the keyhole of the great door: it perfectly frames the dome of St Peter's.
- Walk down towards the Tiber and cross Ponte Sublicio back into Trastevere, where you'll have dinner at L'Elementare: pizza and Roman cooking in a lively setting.
Getting around
- Getting there: tram 8 to the Belli stop, about 10 minutes, then on foot.
- Getting back: after dinner, tram 8 from one of the stops on Viale di Trastevere, towards Casaletto.
A tip
The Orange Garden is magnificent at sunset too: if you prefer, reverse the order and end the day up there.
Day 7A day trip out of town
A day outside the centre, to see another side of Rome: an ancient city that has survived almost intact, or the villas and gardens of Tivoli.
- Ostia Antica was ancient Rome's port: paved streets, houses, baths, shops and a theatre that still stands, often far less crowded than the Forum. Alternatively, there's Tivoli, with Villa d'Este and its fountain gardens and, just outside the town, Hadrian's Villa, the residence of the Emperor Hadrian.
- Take it slowly: both trips are worth a whole day. Bring water, a hat and comfortable shoes, as there's a lot of walking, all outdoors.
- Back home, tired and happy, a quiet evening right downstairs at C'Era Una Volta.
Getting around
- Ostia Antica: from Roma Trastevere station, a train to Roma Ostiense (1 stop), then walk to the nearby Porta San Paolo station and take the Roma–Lido train to the Ostia Antica stop. BIT tickets are all you need.
- Tivoli: from Roma Trastevere station, a train to Roma Tiburtina, then a regional train to Tivoli. Here the BIT isn't enough: you need a regional ticket, which you can buy at the station.
A tip
Ostia Antica and Villa d'Este have closing days and opening times that change with the seasons: check them on the official websites before you set off.
For longer stays
For longer stays: the Via Appia Antica by bike, among Roman tombs, aqueducts and open countryside, with the catacombs of San Callisto or San Sebastiano; the Castelli Romani, with Frascati and its wines, by train from Roma Termini; Testaccio and its covered market, for a taste of the most authentic Roman cooking. And then, simply, a slow morning in Monteverde: a coffee at the bar, a walk in Villa Sciarra, the shopping at the market, just like the people who live in Rome.